Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Wonderful to see an answer straight from the shop. I’ve bugged them many times and, while they don’t always have an answer or recollection, the fact that they listen and try is what matters to me.
Everything else looks correct. Considering how small an operation it was back then, I wonder if the sig just got overlooked.
I use the lights on everything. Even a 12 fret dread tuned down a whole step and they still sound clear and powerful, unlike other brands of lights I’ve tried.
When you take the strings off, lay your phone on the back (under the bridge) with the flashlight on. Then use the mirror to check South of the bridge plate. That should let you see the sig.
Yes Richard, I have an all mahogany SCGC uke. Not signed, but the shop verified the serial # and was able to look up the build sheet.
The only one I’ve had that wasn’t signed was a uke. On the darker woods (redwood, mahogany, koa) the sig was harder to see but it was there. Not always on the same side of the bridge.
Best to test it yourself. The angle at which a strap pulls on the pin means a strap typically can’t remove the pin. But, some of them get quite loose. If you find it’s not snug enough for you, I’d use nothing more than a drop of white or yellow glue. Something that can be broken loose should it ever need to be removed for repair or modification.
I personally don’t use scotch brite on my strings because it leaves grit/dust when used on the wound strings. A cloth after playing is enough. If you really hate changing strings, running the cloth under the strings helps a little. Since I started using SCGC strings I easily get a year out of the strings just by wiping the tops of them after each play.
Eh, I bought several types from boutique pick companies (even beta tested for one of them) and, while they are nice, so are the freebies the string companies give me. I think one of the things that makes boutique picks sound “better” is that the edges are polished. Not that the actual material is somehow superior.
I recently went through all the picks I’ve collected over the last 35 years and was surprised to find an obscure Japanese “Pickboy” ceramic/nylon with dimples on it was my favorite. Dunlop Ultex are still my go-to. I’m a tone snob and have no problem buying expensive gear, but I don’t feel that expensive picks are better, just different.
The one critical thing is the rag you use. It doesn’t matter if it’s cotton or microfiber, but any debris that gets trapped in there will haze your finish. Many people assume it’s the product they’re using, or the type of rag. It’s almost always small particles trapped in the rag. I did professional finishing a while back and the first thing my boss taught me was; if the rag falls on the ground, it never touches a finish again. Keep them in a plastic bag.
Many guitar cleaning products do the same thing and all that matters is which one you like the smell of. They all leave a little residue so you’re best off using a dry cloth. If that isn’t enough, lightly dampen it. When you do a string change, consider using a guitar cleaning product to get the grime off. And, naptha is great for an annual deep clean as it gets everything off and leaves no residue.
Your fret board does NOT need to be “nourished”. Every time you oil it, a trace of that oil remains in the wood as a tacky residue. If you like the look of a shiny board, you can can safely use a minimal amount of oil a couple times a year.
Me personally, I wipe down the strings and any contact points on the body after every play session. I’ll use a guitar cleaner when changing strings. Naptha if I’m doing repairs. And, I’ll only oil a board if I’m about to take pictures of a guitar I’m going to sell.
Also, it’s a nitrocellulose finish, so be careful what chemicals you put in contact with it. Even alcohol can sometimes be a problem. Nitro is soft and even using a paper towel can potentially haze the finish.
Trying to use a solvent without knowing the material isn’t ideal. Though, naptha is generally safe.
I’d use a mild buffing polish as it will not only remove the paint, but the abrasion marks from the impact as well. I do a good number of repairs and there’s always some kind of mark left in the finish when you have contact like that. Hopefully it’s not so much that you’d have to level the surface. After that, a finishing polish after that will give it the original gloss back.
I think it’s a great idea, so long as the contents are moved and not deleted.
Also, small recommendation; I would name the main section “general” rather than community. Community sections of forums are usually social/get-together sections. Main discussion sections are usually called general, or something along those lines.
